Sunday, March 31, 2013

routine

This last week has been pretty normal.  We finished up our classes and have started getting ready for final exams as well as finishing up a few last papers.  It's weird that we only have this next week in London and then a week trip to the West Country next week.  It's all passed by so quickly, I'm not sure I'm ready for it to be over.  Highlights from this last week include seeing "Let It Be" on Wednesday night.  I had no idea what to expect and assumed it was a story about the Beatles with their music.  Instead, it was four guys as the Beatles, playing set after set of songs; basically a Beatles concert.  They were quite good and it was just a fun night of singing and dancing.

         The other fun event this week was going to Kew Gardens on Friday.  They are the Royal Botanic gardens set on 300 acres of land close to London.  It was quite chilly that day, so a friend and I went to two different glasshouses, one for the tropics, the other was a temperate house.  We also saw Kew Palace and the remains of the Royal Kitchen which were rather boring.  We did do a tree-top walk which was really neat and we saw the Japanese pagoda but it was not open for visitors.  The estate is huge and the flowers are starting to come up, but it would have been much nicer had the sun come out to stay.  On our way back to the tube station there was a bakery stand of pastries and sandwiches.  I got a salami and brie baguette sandwich that was delicious!  Market foods are so awesome.


view from the tree-top walk

Thursday, March 28, 2013

food


My last full day in Paris seems to have been dominated by food.  After a visit to Pere Lachaise where we saw the graves of Chopin, Moliere and Oscar Wilde, we headed back to rue Moufettard for some more crepes.  I got a ham and cheese one that was pretty good, but then we went to Carl Marletti’s for dessert.  They have amazing pastries and desserts and I chose a chocolate praline tart.  So, so good!  After eating our pastries by a fountain, we found the Statue of Liberty, took some pictures and then went to the Eiffel Tower where we got some food and enjoyed watching the tourists.  I chose a caramel and chocolate crepe that was amazingly good.  So tasty.  Our last tourist stop for the day was Lovers Lock Bridge where people have padlocked their love to the bridge and thrown away the key.  It’s a cute (if tacky) idea but since I had no one’s initials to write, I mostly helped take pictures and just watched the tourists doing the same.  It was pretty entertaining though.  Then we got gelato at Amorino, a delicious gelateria where they shape the ice cream into flowers!

 


            











Our last day in Paris, Saturday, I decided to save for relaxing and some shopping.  A friend and I went out and actually found some clothes.  I got two tops, both striped from H&M so it was a successful day.  We headed back to London in the early afternoon and though I was sad to leave the sunshine of Paris, it was nice to get back home and be somewhere familiar and where I could actually communicate.  Every time I attempted to speak some of my limited French, all that came out was Italian.  I probably should have just spoken Italian; maybe they would have liked me better.  Despite the language barrier, it was an amazing few days and I already can’t wait to go back someday, hopefully with someone who speaks the language; that would be useful!




versailles




Thursday we went out to Versailles and the group I went with headed out at about 8:00 so we got there shortly after it opened.  Somehow we got lucky and there were no lines.  We literally walked right in with no waiting at all.  I was somewhat unimpressed by the palace, though I did like the Hall of Mirrors; that was cool.  We went through pretty quickly but spent several hours in the gardens.  

hall of mirrors

First we just walked around, but then we decided to rent bikes for an hour and so we proceeded to ride around the entire gardens.  In case you don’t know, Versailles’ gardens are enormous and we went biked rather quickly.  I was exhausted after that but then we walked over to Marie-Antoinette’s hamlet which is adorable.  It looks like something straight out of Beauty and the Beast or Snow White.  It was such a cool experience, definitely something you have to do if you go to Paris.  


            Back in Paris, some friends and I went to the Pantheon to see where some famous dead people are buried including Alexander Dumas, Victor Hugo, Marie Curie, Voltaire and Rousseau.  Then we got some food, probably the most important part of the day.  We found this great creperie on rue Moufettard as suggested by a friend.  I had a dark chocolate crepe – ohmygoodness it was tasty.  The guy even put the chocolate on in shapes! From there we went to the arc du triumph and hiked up to the top to get some views of the city.  It was dark but so, so fun.  We also saw the Eiffel Tower sparkle which was a unique and rather thrilling experience.  I loved it.

my delicious crepe


sacre coeur

entrance to the Louvre

Our first stop for the day was the Louvre! We got there right when it opened and basically walked right in, only stopping for security.  I saw the major pieces before wandering around to see some Renaissance objects in another wing.  Probably my favorite thing, other than the Mona Lisa, was the slaves by Michelangelo.  I love his work and it is so amazing to see his understanding of the human body translated into sculpture.  From one museum to the next, some friends and I went to the Orangerie and saw Monet’s work that is housed there.  It was really cool but not my favorite.  The next part of our day was absolutely delicious. 
           

   We headed to Angelina’s where they have famously good hot chocolate but before we got there, we ran into some friends headed to a famed boulangerie so we tagged along and I got a ham and cheese sandwich on baguette bread with a friend.  It really was amazing.  Apparently they won the award for best baguette a few years ago; I can totally believe it.  From there we went back to Angelina’s and got our hot chocolate.  Friends had suggested getting white and dark hot chocolate and then mixing them together which we did.  But I preferred the dark hot chocolate alone with some whipped cream.  It was not at all too chocolaty for me as it was for them.  Basically if you ever go, you have to get some.  It is deliciously rich and thick and just right for a chilly day. 



            We hurried to the metro stop outside the Louvre so we could meet up with our group to head to the Opera Garnier where we had a guided tour of the theater.  We saw the main hall, the entrance way and the Phantom’s box, all while learning the history of the opera house.  It was really interesting though I had trouble just staying awake. 

loge du fantome de l'opera
[the phantom of the opera's box]

 I went with a group to Montmartre and on our way we stopped at the Galleries Lafayette which has a beautiful art nouveau stained glass ceiling that is incredible.  We only stopped for a moment and then we went on the metro.  


Our first stop was the cemeterie Montmartre where I attempted to find a grave for my sister but unfortunately could not find despite all of us looking.  We did walk up to Sacre Coeur and we got there in time to hear the nuns singing and to see the sunset from there.  I took some photographs of the sunset which are beautiful but which hardly capture the moment.  The weather was perfect all day so seeing the sun set was the best ending to our explorations. 



sunset at sacre coeur



straighten up


Tuesday was amazing and so great.  Our first stop as a group was the Musee Rodin where we saw much of Rodin’s work, some of which I fell in love with.  Three pieces in particular stood out to me, Paolo e Francesca (of course), “Hand of God” and “Last Sight.”  You can find any of these online and each one stood out to me for various reasons.  The first is most easily explained. Last semester I studied Dante and read his Divina commedia in the original which, although a trial, was a great experience and gave me an appreciation for each of the different parts. This particular couple arises time and again and the story of their love is legendary. 


            I left with some friends and we headed towards the Musee d’Orsay but ended up near the Orangerie which was not open, unfortunately.  Two friends and I went down to the Louvre and took some pictures before rejoining our friends.  We stopped to take a break and we ended up dozing in the sunshine in some chairs next to a fountain in the Tuileries Gardens while listening to Edith Piaf.  It was perfect.  We eventually made it to the museum (after stopping on the bridge where I bought a painting) and I had another moment of awe.  The Orsay is known for its impressionist paintings and when I walked into that room I was hit with an overwhelming sense of wonder and of understanding.  The only thing to explain it is that after studying them in class, and having then been to Paris and seen the city in person, their work seemed to make more sense.  Either way, I hope I never forget those feelings when I first stepped into that room. 

We decided we wanted to see the arc du triomph so we walked down the Champs-Elysees as it started drizzling.  By the time we reached it, the rain was pouring down and there was some sort of parade about to happen.  To get out of the rain we decided to stop in Laduree for macarons and I tried three different kinds; chocolate coconut, salted caramel and pistachio.  They were all quite tasty though the first two were a bit chewier than I was expecting but the flavors of all three were great.  I had a bite of a Brazilian chocolate one from a friend and it was also delicious.  From there we headed home and I decided to straighten my hair.  Luckily my roommates offered to help so I let them pretty much take over.  They got it done in about half an hour and I had perfectly straight hair for the next day. 

macarons!

first impressions


Monday morning we had an early wake-up call; we left the center at 5:30 and took the first tube out to the train station where we caught the Eurostar to Paris.  Our trip was uneventful until it came time for our train to leave.  We noticed it was past the time we were supposed to leave when we heard a voice over the loud speaker apologizing for the delay; they had found a stowaway on the train and were in the process of checking the rest of the train.  We actually saw him led away in handcuffs through our windows; he didn’t look very old, probably about our age.  To be honest, most of us were surprised he made it as far as he did; security and passport checks were pretty thorough.  But we made it to Paris, with no other delays.

first view of Paris!


            Our first stop was the hotel where we dropped off our luggage and then headed out into the city. We went to Notre Dame, hiked up the stairs and saw some gorgeous views of a city covered in fog.  It made it a little difficult to see much but it was the experience, right?  From there some friends and I went exploring into the Latin Quarter, so named for the university that is there and the fact that students used to speak Latin.  We found Shakespeare and Co., an adorable all English bookstore in the Latin quarter.  I loved it.  The building was small but crammed with books on every subject possible. They even had reading rooms upstairs, one of which had a piano and while we were there, someone started playing.  It was delightful.

inside Shakespeare & co.

view as you step inside from the staircase
            After some lunch we went to Sainte Chapelle where, after more rigorous security, we saw the beautiful stained glass windows.  They are absolutely breathtaking and no picture can do them justice. To get to the room you walk up a small, short staircase and then suddenly you’re in the chapel and you are surrounded by beauty.  It is incredible just to stand there and soak up the wonder of thousands of stories told through the colored glass. 
            My first impression of Paris is one of amazement and curiosity.  It is so very different from London and I love it.  The city seems to exude romance and loveliness.  The pace seems slower, couples are more affectionate and there is no such thing as personal space on the metro.  I already can’t wait to come back and we’ve only been here a day.   

dinner at amorino
[crepe with stracciatella and nocciola gelato]

Sunday, March 17, 2013

spectacular




Before I start, I would like to say: HAPPY ST. PATRICK'S DAY! And a very Happy Birthday to my wonderful Grandpa! I hope he has a wonderful day and enjoys every moment of it!

So, not to sound cheesy but it was an amazing week.  I did quite a bit of homework in the first few days and managed to get it all done so I was at liberty to do whatever I wanted the rest of the week.  Tuesday night we saw "War Horse" which was incredible.  The movie is based off the play and so I was excited to see how they changed the play for the movie.  As the title suggests, the story is about a horse named Joey and to play him, they had three guys, each in charge of a different part of the horse, to move him like a puppet.  At times I forgot that it was a puppet, it acted like a real horse thanks to the maneuverings of the actors.  The entire cast did an amazing job and I was blown away by how perfect it was.  I also had a good seat so that helped!

Wednesday afternoon I went to the Orangery in Kensington Gardens with some friends and we got some tea as well as a cheese plate.  I got lemon and ginger tea which tasted amazing with a little sugar. The cheeses were pretty good though we had a blue cheese that I did not like at all.  Afterwards I did some shopping and finally found a pair of oxfords that I love as well as some new nail polish.  That night I watched "Midnight in Paris" with some girls in preparation for our trip to Paris.  I am SO excited for Paris, I just know I will love it.
There's the icky blue cheese (just behind the chutney)
The other exciting events this week were a guided tour of St. Paul's which was fun but rather disappointing as the very top gallery was closed and so we could not take photos of the London skyline as I had planned and a concert.  That night we went to the Royal Albert Hall for their "Classical Spectacular."  They were celebrating 25 years of the show and it involved lasers, light shows, fireworks (sparklers), rifle shots and cannon.  It was incredible!  The cannons were a bit surprising, one girl in our group shrieked/screamed when they first went off.  It probably didn't help that one of the cannons was literally just above us.  I thoroughly enjoyed myself and the music; because it was all popular classical music, I actually recognized nearly all the pieces.


I finally got more souvenir shopping done on Saturday when I decided to brave the crowds and the drizzle at Portobello Road.  It was crazy busy but it was also kind of fun once I accepted the fact that I would have to walk slowly and keep an eye out for the stop-and-go tourists and their umbrellas.  I found some lovely stalls of old books, vintage tea china and antique jewelry.  I ended up buying a few tea plates and saucers as well as a three-tiered tea tray.  I can't wait to host a tea party when I get home! Now all I need are the tea cups...


 P.S.  On Thursday I popped over to the V&A to see some art nouveau which we had just finished studying in class.  I found I really love that style and so had quite some fun looking at some posters by Mucha.


Sunday, March 10, 2013

the north

Fountains Abbey
We took a longer trip up north this last week with multiple stops.  Our ultimate destination was Scotland, Edinburgh to be exact, but before we got there, we stopped first at Fountains Abbey in Yorkshire.  The grounds contain the ruins of the abbey as well as multiple other buildings including a mill and a former home that is now apartments.  It was absolutely beautiful.  We encountered much foggy and wet weather which made our explorations of the castles and ruins that much more memorable.  After the Abbey we went to York and saw the cathedral there before heading on to Edinburgh where we spent two nights.

the castle
Our first day there, we saw the Castle and the National Gallery and then I had lunch at the Elephant House Cafe which was pretty good.  I then proceeded to spend three hours shopping for various gifts.  It was so tiring but I did finally find everything that I needed to! After I rested for a bit I went back out to explore the University of Edinburgh campus a little and then went to Waverley Bridge.  The next day a group of us hiked to Arthur's Seat which was quite tiring but totally worth the views of the city.  It was beautiful and a fun experience.



view from the hike


ruins on Lindisfarne
From Edinburgh we headed to the island of Lindisfarne which houses more ruins and a church.  The ruins were closed (we don't know why) but we found a way around the gate so we still got to explore a little bit.  It was really cool going to the island because we had to wait for the tide to go out so that the path would be usable.   It reminded me of "The Woman in Black" and the house that he goes to except this was not creepy at all.  We spent that night in Newcastle but didn't do any sightseeing there.  Instead we got up early and went to see part of Hadrian's Wall.  This was really great and I had lots of fun the first five minutes we were there.  Then I fell backwards and proceed to slide down the hill a bit.  Luckily (or unluckily) I landed on an area covered in snow so I didn't get dirty, only freezingly cold and wet.  My pants weren't completely dry until late afternoon.  It was a miserable morning.  From the Wall we went to Durham to see the Cathedral there and get some lunch.  It was a beautiful building but we weren't allowed to take pictures.

my very wet backside and makeshift hood
(my real hood wouldn't stay up)

Our last stop was home! It was a fun few days and in spite of the rainy weather, I loved it.

Sunday, March 3, 2013

greenwich

This last week went by so quickly it is hard to believe it is already Sunday.  On Tuesday we saw "The Phantom of the Opera" which was quite fun and a good experience to see another musical that we had discussed in class.  It was amazing to see what they were capable of on stage, especially in terms of the fantastic sets.  It really felt like I was there in their world, experiencing the drama between Christine, Raoul and the Phantom.

old ruins
Wednesday we went to Canterbury where we explored the Cathedral, some old ruins and the town.  It was a rather miserable day for sightseeing so some friends and I spent the better part of our time in a little cafe called "Tiny Tim's Tearoom."  It was quite a perfect afternoon.  Thursday night we had the chance to attend a candlelit music concert at St. Martin-in-the-Fields.  It was lovely though the hard seats made it hard to be comfortable.  But they did keep me from falling asleep.

Canterbury Cathedral

Our Friday and Saturday agendas were switched so on Saturday we did our exploring of London which meant a trip to Parliament and Greenwich. We got a tour of the Houses of Parliament which is actually named Westminster Palace.  It was quite extraordinary to see the two houses and hear some explanations of how British politics works.  It's a bit confusing and doesn't seem terribly effective but that is tradition and they hold to it very strictly.  Following our tour we took a ferry to Greenwich where some friends and I got lunch at the market and then stopped at some museums.  We saw the National Maritime Museum and the Royal Observatory where we took pictures on the Prime Meridian.  It was fun and a perfect day for exploring; the sun finally came out!
National Maritime Museum


Standing on the Prime Meridian